(Photo: Brian Ach/WireImage)

After 24 years in two West Village locations, the cultishly beloved eatery Shopsin’s is moving its legendary 900-odd-item menu and its Connect Four boards to Carroll Gardens in Brooklyn. Kenny Shopsin, the breakfast-and-lunch spot’s Falstaffian owner, seems interested mostly in Brooklyn’s cheaper rent, which would allow him to spend more time jawing with customers, rather than in the kitchen. He didn’t want to be interviewed about the move, though. “Why don’t you just make something fucking up?” he said. “That’s what you’re going to do anyway.” Shopsin’s regulars resolve to brave the trip. Lizzie Grubman said, “Oh, my God! I’m very disappointed . . . It’s my favorite restaurant in New York.” She resolved to follow Kenny (“my most favorite person”) and his culinary concoctions, as did Drew Barrymore, who can often be found chowing down with her boyfriend, Strokes drummer Fabrizio Moretti. Said Barrymore, “I went to the one on Bedford and Morton. I went to the one on Bedford and Carmine. I guess I’m headed to Brooklyn!”

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• Archive: “Intelligencer”
• Articles by Katie Charles
• Table of Contents: April 3, 2006 issue of New York | Subscribe!